There are many types of fishermen out there. You've got your novice line-tanglers, commercial long liners, bass addicts, deep sea cigarette smokers, ticklers, ice fishermen, bow and arrow types. And while many folks like to fish, there are some anglers who operate further out in the deep end. I'm talking specifically about that special, dedicated breed of fisherman who make their own lead weights and jigs.
To make these fishing accessories lead from old tire weights and other sources is melted down and poured into molds. It's not a terribly difficult process, but it does raise some safety concerns. For instance the lead isn't typically very pure or clean. This doesn't particularly matter to the fish, but it does provide some challenges for our advanced angler.
We recently had a question on our website asking us to cover lead protection in greater detail. Our customer asked "I am an avid fisherman and make my own lead jigs known as "shad darts" for a spring run fish I enjoy pursuing each year. Can you advise what would be the safest mask, filters, gloves and clothing to use when melting lead and pouring into the dart molds I have. Also, do you sell any respiratory masks that would filter out vinyl paint fumes? I also use this type of paint to color the jigs and darts I make because they do not chip easily. The vinyl paint has a nasty odor and I am aware that, like lead, it is also hazardous. Any help would be appreciated."
Great questions, and excellent awareness of the potential problems associated with this type of operation. Before beginning the process or donning protective gear, the first order of business is providing good ventilation for the project. Melting your lead outside, in a garage with the door open, or at the very least in a room with a fan helping to clear the air is a must. Outside is preferable. Cooking down and melting lead will give off fumes that must be prevented from entering the lungs. In addition to the metal fumes, the grease, grime, and oil that may be on the lead will create smoke and other particulate matter. Then there's the smell.
The beginnings of a solution for protecting the lungs is finding a way to filter the particulates. The CDC (Center for Disease Control and Prevention) recommend respirators with an N-100, R-100, or P-100 rating. The 100 is the important thing. Also sometimes referred to as HEPA-class filters, they are certified to capture at least 99.97% of particulates at the 0.3-micron most-penetrating particle size (per NIOSH 42 CFR 84). Lead particles and fumes will definitely be blocked by this filter as long as the mask is fit properly.
While you can get N100 disposable masks such as the 3M 8233 Particulate Respirator, also known as the 3M Lead Dust Mask, it's been my experience that disposable masks rarely provide the same level of face seal as the reusable masks like the 3M 6000 series or 7500 series half face respirators. The 6000 series is less expensive but the 7500 series is much more comfortable and is made of 100% silicon which allows for easier clean-up.
If you were only dealing with lead dust, there are several good mask combos for sale including the 3M 6000 Half Mask Lead Dust Respirator Combination, the 3M 7500 Lead Dust Respirator Combination or the very good and less expensive Moldex 7940 P100 Filter and 7000 Respirator Combination. The 3M options both feature P100 filters protected by a plastic cover. This may be important if your lead splatters or splashes. Hot metal can burn holes in material filters and render them useless at the least appropriate time.
If you're looking for something that will filter out bad smells that may come from melting lead or, as our customer requested, to use for the painting portion of his project, the 3M 60921 Organic Vapor Cartridge with pre-filter combo provides excellent all-around protection. The sealed pre-filter keeps out the fumes from the lead. Organic vapors from the paint are blocked by the activated charcoal inside the cartridge.
One quick note about the 60921 cartridges. These are fairly expensive. People always ask us how often they need to be replaced. The answer is it depends. You can use them until you either smell the paint or metal fumes through the mask (in which case the activated charcoal in the cartridges has finally been overwhelmed) or until you find it difficult to draw a breath (in which case the filters have been clogged). Either way you’ll know it’s time to change them out. You can extend the life of the activated charcoal in the cartridges by storing them in a ziplock bag when you’re not using the respirator.
I don't honestly know how hot your tools get when working with the molten lead. I have seen videos of guys using regular welding gloves to pour and work with the molds, weights, and jigs. What concerns me is that when you're working with the lead you’ll inevitably accumulate lead dust, shavings, and splash on your gloves. It seems like a better idea to get rid of your gloves after you’ve used them for casting lead. The trick is finding a glove that is inexpensive enough to dispose of after use, but that still provides adequate protection. The MCR Safety Flex 9688 gloves might fit the bill. They have a latex-dipped palm and fingers which will help with any residual heat on the jigs or with hot tools. At $1.50 a pair, they are not terribly expensive. The Towa PowerGrab Thermo Insulated Gloves would be a nice upgrade. A leather-palm work glove like the MCR Memphis 1200S is an economy option.
For clothing, a disposable Tyvek suit like the Tyvek 1412 is a good idea. Inexpensive and disposable. Again, the dust isn’t something you want around. If you put your clothing in the wash with your other clothes you can really create quite a problem. It can really make you sick. One more tip – when you order your Tyvek suit, get it one size larger than you would normally wear. It won’t tear out so easily when you move around doing your work.
Finally, always wear safety glasses. Models like the Pyramex Mini Z-Tek glasses are smart, inexpensive additions to your personal protective equipment. You’ve only got one set of eyes and even a single drop of water in the lead will make it splatter. Simple goggles work well too. Consider the comfortable Pyramex G704T Chemical Splash Goggles for this type of work.to
I hope these suggestions give you a better idea what safety equipment you need to stay protected when you're working with lead. If you have additional questions feel free to contact us. You can also give our safety experts a call at 1-800-829-9580.
Frequently Asked Questions
What kind of respirator do you need for melting lead?
You need a tight-fitting respirator with an N-100, R-100, or P-100 particulate filter. All three ratings capture at least 99.97% of particulates at the 0.3-micron most-penetrating particle size per NIOSH 42 CFR 84 — the size where lead dust and fume particles are hardest to filter. A reusable half-face respirator with a proper face seal (like the 3M 6000 series or 3M 7500 series) generally seals better than a disposable N100 filtering facepiece for repeated home casting sessions.
Will a P100 filter block lead dust and fumes?
Yes. P100 filters are certified to capture at least 99.97% of particulates at the 0.3-micron most-penetrating particle size, which is well below the size range of lead dust and lead fume particles from melting operations. The P in P100 also indicates the filter is oil-resistant ("oil proof"), which is useful when tire weights and scrap lead carry residual oils. Effectiveness depends on the respirator sealing properly to the face — facial hair between the sealing surface and the skin will fail the seal on any tight-fitting respirator per OSHA 29 CFR 1910.134(g)(1)(i)(A).
Is a disposable N100 mask or a reusable P100 respirator better for lead melting?
Both filter classes meet the 99.97% capture standard, but reusable half-face respirators (3M 6000 series, 3M 7500 series, Moldex 7000 series) generally provide a more consistent face seal than disposable filtering facepieces. Reusable models also have a plastic filter cover that protects the filter media from splash — important when hot lead can splatter and burn holes in exposed filter material. If you cast lead only occasionally, a disposable N100 works; if you cast regularly, a reusable half-face pays for itself in comfort and seal quality within a few uses.
Can one cartridge filter both lead fumes and paint fumes?
Yes — the 3M 60921 combines a P100 particulate filter with an organic vapor (OV) cartridge in a single unit. The P100 layer captures lead dust and fume particles; the activated charcoal inside the OV cartridge adsorbs organic vapors from paints and solvents. If you cast lead and then paint your jigs in the same session, this combination cartridge avoids swapping filters between tasks. Standalone organic vapor cartridges alone will NOT stop lead dust — the particulate filter layer is essential.
How often should you replace organic vapor cartridges?
There is no fixed calendar interval. Replace cartridges when you can smell or taste the solvent or fumes through the mask (the activated charcoal has been saturated), or when breathing becomes noticeably harder (the particulate filter is clogged). For occupational use, OSHA 29 CFR 1910.134(d)(3)(iii)(B) requires a written change-out schedule rather than relying on smell alone — but for hobbyist casting sessions, the smell-or-breathing-effort test is the practical standard. Storing cartridges in a sealed zip-top bag between uses extends the charcoal life because the carbon otherwise adsorbs solvent vapors from ambient air.
What gloves and clothing should you wear for lead casting?
Wear disposable gloves you can throw away after each session — lead dust and splash accumulate on any glove used for casting. Latex-dipped work gloves (MCR Safety Flex 9688 or similar, about $1.50/pair) balance splash protection against affordability. Over top, a disposable Tyvek suit (Tyvek 1412, ordered one size larger for movement) keeps lead dust off your regular clothes — critical, because washing lead-contaminated clothing with the family laundry can spread contamination and create a serious household exposure. Always wear safety glasses or chemical splash goggles: even a single drop of water hitting molten lead can cause dangerous splatter.
Photo credit: PK Safety
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